Need help - Issues with open doors & other behavior problems - YorkieTalk.com Forums

Zerelda311 · 02-07-2013, 09:15 AM

Bella is our newest addition, is 4 months old. We also have a 8 month old and a 10 year old. Bella seems to be "wild". When my husband opens the door to go out, she takes off running outside and is extremely difficult to catch. She also "bullies" Sadie, our 8 month old. (She doesnt mess with Zoe, the 10 year old because Zoe was quick to let her know that she was the boss.)
Bella climbs up our baby gates and escapes to off limit rooms. Of all the yorkies that we have had, she is the most "difficult". She doesnt mind me or my husband. My other dogs are quick to learn and obey easily. What are we doing wrong? At first, I questioned the breeding. I didnt do as much research before buying her because I was desperate to find Sadie a playmate. I know shes still a puppy but giving her boundries and limitations doesnt seem to phase her. We love her, but she is definitely causing problems in the "pack". What can we do?

Marioana · 02-07-2013, 09:19 AM

One suggestion I have, for the climbing, is to buy baby gates with vertical bars only...we found on amazon a thing can be converted into a play pan also and has a gate, and Chewie can't climb it (he climbs everything else, like bath tubs, beds, chairs, tries to jump on counters...)

MyDearSam · 02-07-2013, 09:38 AM

Does she wear a harness okay? As far as the running out the door, you may need to keep her tethered on a leash until you can teach her not to bolt. Keeping her tethered might also give you an advantage as far as her other behavioral problems if you can restrain her more.

SWHouston · 02-07-2013, 11:10 AM

First of all, you're not doing anything wrong...

Dogs are much like people. Some have "stronger" personalities, and others more passive. My Male Puppy Ichabod is much like Bella, giving My (alpha) Male Sneakers a lot of respect, while he plays and nips at My Female Becca constantly. I scold him while I pet Becca, but this barely moderates his activities. Only the animal who is being "bothered" by his actions, can deal with that. So, IF you support Sadie more, she may realize that she can do something about it, and put Bella in her place. IF you see Sadie snap/bite back at Bella, I suggest that you don't intervene, other than petting Sadie to support her actions.

However...
All in all, there's not a lot you can actually do about this. Bella is demonstrating her desire for an Alpha position in the pack, and as I said, it's up to the residents (not you by the way) do defend/or permit this to happen.

I will add...
Your Breeder should have been able to tell you about Bella's demeanor before you got her. Those aggressive/alpha tendencies show up almost immediately when the Pups start playing with each other, and rarely an issue which is considered, when adding a member to one's Pack.

This is a "natural" thing, not a "bad" thing.

kjc · 02-08-2013, 07:07 AM

Maybe some taming, training and people bonding would help. How long have you had her?

Cha Cha · 02-08-2013, 09:24 AM

We don't have the alpha problems or problems with other dogs, but my Mylee does have some pretty severe anxiety and behavior issues and is a runner.

I have been spending a great deal of time training her to the open door or when I leave not to rush the door and try to bolt.

First what I did was throw kibble away from the door and as she went for the kibble, I slipped out the door. After she got used to the kibble, I started working with her on the stay command. I take her to a rug which is away from the door, give her a small treat then ask her to stay while I walk to and out the door. If she comes off her rug, during my walk to the door, I redirect. This gives me plenty of time to get out the door without worry of her being right behind me or under my feet. (I so worry about one of them getting slammed in the door too.) This has been a life saver for us and her wanting to bolt (plus she was aggressive towards us as we tried to leave and this has completely stopped that behavior as well).

Now, she has gotten to where she doesn't need the treat I just take her to her rug and ask her to stay and she does really well most times. She is almost to the point that she'll take herself to the rug as I walk out the door. She's trying. It has taken a lot of patience and time to get her to this point but she probably wants to learn more than any other dog I've ever had. She's very smart. If I don't tell her to stay, she'll try to come to the door with me, and even revert back to being aggressive as I leave so she knows the routine, and expects it.

Some people have gates up in front of their doors too which is a good idea if you have a runner.

Good luck and welcome to YT!

SWHouston · 02-08-2013, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cha Cha

what I did was throw kibble away from the door and as she went for the kibble, I slipped out the door.

HA HA HA, I've GOT to try that !

Actually, my guys can't get to the front Door, because of the gates I have in place, but...

When we go out the back Door, into the (fenced) yard, they ALL bark like crazy ! Day or Night, with Night being the problem. The back Yard is the area which they (apparently) think is the biggest threat to my/our security, and they are "defending/alarming" in doing that.

I can't seem to convince them, that Birds, Squirrels and an occasional Possum are not that bad.

yorkietalkjilly · 02-08-2013, 10:21 AM

I apologize - this is very long but is a step-by-step way I train dogs with door darting issues. As far as the door darting, it is possible to get a dog to change that behavior but I'll be honest, it takes work and repetition. It takes you staying in training mode, matter-of-fact and not losing patience as it is hard to train the greeting excitement reaction out of a dog. To train her from the start, use high value treats she will "kill" to get - her very fav's that she sits up and takes notice over - something like turkey hot dog pieces or boiled chicken. Desensitize and redirect her energies to the door by repetition of having a family member knock on the door/ring the bell, take a treat in your closed fist and guide her after your fist carried low beside you near her nose to a spot you want her to go to when someone is at the door. Make it a spot where she can see who is at the door - don't frustrate her by putting her in another room. Let her door spot be within sight of the door and the newcomer. Anyway, guide her with the closed fist full of a treat to the spot you want her to go to, have her lie down and treat her, rub her back in praise and smile. No excitement here. Don't amp her up by wild praise here. Just treat and praise when she lies down. Keep repeating this over and over - at least 4 - 5 minutes at a time a few times a day.

At the same time, if she doesn't know the "stay" or "wait" obedience trick, teach her that and keep the training fun and upbeat. You want her coming along happily with the learning process. Smile when she gets it right. Praise with really loving feeling, looking her in the eyes and treating. This will help her start to learn there is such a thing in her life as impulse control and that if she goes to and waits in place when someone comes to the door, she gets that lovely treat. Here's the trick - don't treat every single time after the first few days of training. That expectation of when she might get a treat is wonderful to dogs and they work hard in hopes that this might be the time. It is more effective than treating every time after the first few days of teaching a trick.

Once she is able to control herself and has learned the "stay", start to desensitize her to staying in place in her door spot, the place you are teaching her to go for a treat when someone comes to the door. When the doorbell rings and she goes to her door spot of your choice and lies down, treat her and say "Stay" or "Wait", hold her eyes with yours and hold that treat in your fist before her as someone else answers the door and lets the person in. Herd her back into place when she tries to get up and go greet. And she will. Over and over she will try. THIS IS WHERE SHE WILL TRY YOUR PATIENCE TO THE DEATH! And here is where the success comes in - just stay in training mode, say "Uh oh", go retrieve her, herd her back with your arms and hands outstretched to the side, looking into her eyes with intent, and when she is backing off, grab a treat from your waited treatbag and guide her with that fisted treat back to her door spot and treat her instantly when she lies down. Say "Stay" again, holding another treat enclosed in your fist before her, holding her eyes with yours. When she does stay for as long as even 1/2 a minute, treat and praise her with a gentle pat, smile and release her with the word "release". Now she can go greet the newcomer. Gradually increase her "stay" times in her door spot before you release and allow greeting. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Stay upbeat, fun, smiling.

Repeating this process over and over with patience, love and gentleness is how you can help your dog achieve impulse control and desensitize to the whole idea of a visitor coming to the door without her going wild. It is EXTREMELY work intensive and requires you to absolutely keep it fun and rewarding for her, staying patient and never losing your cool because I find this is the single hardest thing to teach a dog and keep it reinforced.

In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release".

In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild, though in that wild setting with other dogs they don't need to jump up unless they are small puppies. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release".

It is a lot of work and takes about a year if you don't work at it a lot but one day it will all come together and you will have a dog that controls its impulse to dart out the door just like dogs control their impulse to bite, pee where they want, walk beside you on the leash and not pull you down the street - all of those things they learn to do despite their natural inclination. But training them to stay calm and in a safe spot as the door open is entirely possible if you keep patiently at it over and over and over, keep it fun and loving and don't give up. Most people give up and give in to the dog's way and go buy gates. haha.

This type of training or some modified form of it is not for the faint of heart and really only for those who love to work with dogs and keep it fun, positive and rewarding and are far more determined than the dog.

SWHouston · 02-08-2013, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkietalkjilly

I apologize - this is very long.

NO PROBLEM !, what a great Post !

ilovejoel · 02-08-2013, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkietalkjilly

I apologize - this is very long but is a step-by-step way I train dogs with door darting issues. As far as the door darting, it is possible to get a dog to change that behavior but I'll be honest, it takes work and repetition. It takes you staying in training mode, matter-of-fact and not losing patience as it is hard to train the greeting excitement reaction out of a dog. To train her from the start, use high value treats she will "kill" to get - her very fav's that she sits up and takes notice over - something like turkey hot dog pieces or boiled chicken. Desensitize and redirect her energies to the door by repetition of having a family member knock on the door/ring the bell, take a treat in your closed fist and guide her after your fist carried low beside you near her nose to a spot you want her to go to when someone is at the door. Make it a spot where she can see who is at the door - don't frustrate her by putting her in another room. Let her door spot be within sight of the door and the newcomer. Anyway, guide her with the closed fist full of a treat to the spot you want her to go to, have her lie down and treat her, rub her back in praise and smile. No excitement here. Don't amp her up by wild praise here. Just treat and praise when she lies down. Keep repeating this over and over - at least 4 - 5 minutes at a time a few times a day.

At the same time, if she doesn't know the "stay" or "wait" obedience trick, teach her that and keep the training fun and upbeat. You want her coming along happily with the learning process. Smile when she gets it right. Praise with really loving feeling, looking her in the eyes and treating. This will help her start to learn there is such a thing in her life as impulse control and that if she goes to and waits in place when someone comes to the door, she gets that lovely treat. Here's the trick - don't treat every single time after the first few days of training. That expectation of when she might get a treat is wonderful to dogs and they work hard in hopes that this might be the time. It is more effective than treating every time after the first few days of teaching a trick.

Once she is able to control herself and has learned the "stay", start to desensitize her to staying in place in her door spot, the place you are teaching her to go for a treat when someone comes to the door. When the doorbell rings and she goes to her door spot of your choice and lies down, treat her and say "Stay" or "Wait", hold her eyes with yours and hold that treat in your fist before her as someone else answers the door and lets the person in. Herd her back into place when she tries to get up and go greet. And she will. Over and over she will try. THIS IS WHERE SHE WILL TRY YOUR PATIENCE TO THE DEATH! And here is where the success comes in - just stay in training mode, say "Uh oh", go retrieve her, herd her back with your arms and hands outstretched to the side, looking into her eyes with intent, and when she is backing off, grab a treat from your waited treatbag and guide her with that fisted treat back to her door spot and treat her instantly when she lies down. Say "Stay" again, holding another treat enclosed in your fist before her, holding her eyes with yours. When she does stay for as long as even 1/2 a minute, treat and praise her with a gentle pat, smile and release her with the word "release". Now she can go greet the newcomer. Gradually increase her "stay" times in her door spot before you release and allow greeting. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Stay upbeat, fun, smiling.

Repeating this process over and over with patience, love and gentleness is how you can help your dog achieve impulse control and desensitize to the whole idea of a visitor coming to the door without her going wild. It is EXTREMELY work intensive and requires you to absolutely keep it fun and rewarding for her, staying patient and never losing your cool because I find this is the single hardest thing to teach a dog and keep it reinforced.

In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release".

In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild, though in that wild setting with other dogs they don't need to jump up unless they are small puppies. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release".

It is a lot of work and takes about a year if you don't work at it a lot but one day it will all come together and you will have a dog that controls its impulse to dart out the door just like dogs control their impulse to bite, pee where they want, walk beside you on the leash and not pull you down the street - all of those things they learn to do despite their natural inclination. But training them to stay calm and in a safe spot as the door open is entirely possible if you keep patiently at it over and over and over, keep it fun and loving and don't give up. Most people give up and give in to the dog's way and go buy gates. haha.

This type of training or some modified form of it is not for the faint of heart and really only for those who love to work with dogs and keep it fun, positive and rewarding and are far more determined than the dog.

This is really helpful, I need to try this with Joel. The funny thing is I have him trained with not going out the back door until I say ok but the front door is much harder because it's always busy at the front door. I've mostly been avoiding working on the front door but this will help me start

Ldyrev1 · 02-08-2013, 11:12 AM

Jeanie I hope it's ok but I cut and pasted your training directions to my Yorkie file.

yorkietalkjilly · 02-08-2013, 11:27 AM

Goodness, use it how you want! Amend and tweak it and or go completely another way - it's just something that works for me because I want a dog not to dart out and run off when the door is opened. And when one does escape, you call it to you or tell it to "stop", smile a little to the dog can see you are not mad(he could run again if he thinks you are) and go get it, and even if it kills you dead, do not say bad things to the dog or grumble or act mad. Just control that impulse! Just pick him up, patiently bring him back and when he's back inside, treat the little devil and smile that your baby is home and safe and keep training again with a smile, once you've beat your head against the wall a few times and have had a few hours to get the blood pressure back to normal and half a tranquilizer or a glass of wine or chocolate! He's a dog and dogs do doggie things at the worst times and that's why we patiently train and train and train - to stop the unwanted doggie things that can get dogs killed or lost!

But all kinds of techniques work for different people with different dogs so whatever works is what to use in training your dog.

ilovejoel · 02-08-2013, 02:09 PM

When joel gets out if I go to him he runs and won't come by me, so I have to say peanut butter for him to come in the house. I hate to reward him for going out but it's the only thing he comes to.

Zerelda311 · 02-08-2013, 05:18 PM

Thanks for all the info! I will certainly try anything. She is still a puppy (born 10/11/12) so I do try to take that into consideration lol I bought a harness today and it has seemed to chill her out a bit. She has only wiggled out of it 3 times haha

Zerelda311 · 02-08-2013, 05:29 PM

Its a bit dark but bless her heart...she doesnt know about being "limited" lol

02-07-2013, 09:15 AM	#1
Zerelda311 Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 122 Blog Entries: 1	Need help - Issues with open doors & other behavior problems Bella is our newest addition, is 4 months old. We also have a 8 month old and a 10 year old. Bella seems to be "wild". When my husband opens the door to go out, she takes off running outside and is extremely difficult to catch. She also "bullies" Sadie, our 8 month old. (She doesnt mess with Zoe, the 10 year old because Zoe was quick to let her know that she was the boss.) Bella climbs up our baby gates and escapes to off limit rooms. Of all the yorkies that we have had, she is the most "difficult". She doesnt mind me or my husband. My other dogs are quick to learn and obey easily. What are we doing wrong? At first, I questioned the breeding. I didnt do as much research before buying her because I was desperate to find Sadie a playmate. I know shes still a puppy but giving her boundries and limitations doesnt seem to phase her. We love her, but she is definitely causing problems in the "pack". What can we do? __________________ Sometimes the smallest things take up the most room in your heart.

02-07-2013, 09:38 AM	#3
MyDearSam YT 500 Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Tennessee Posts: 646	Does she wear a harness okay? As far as the running out the door, you may need to keep her tethered on a leash until you can teach her not to bolt. Keeping her tethered might also give you an advantage as far as her other behavioral problems if you can restrain her more. __________________ All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us. - JRR Tolkien

02-07-2013, 11:10 AM	#4
SWHouston YT 1000 Club Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Houston, Tx. U.S.A. Posts: 1,537 Blog Entries: 1	First of all, you're not doing anything wrong... Dogs are much like people. Some have "stronger" personalities, and others more passive. My Male Puppy Ichabod is much like Bella, giving My (alpha) Male Sneakers a lot of respect, while he plays and nips at My Female Becca constantly. I scold him while I pet Becca, but this barely moderates his activities. Only the animal who is being "bothered" by his actions, can deal with that. So, IF you support Sadie more, she may realize that she can do something about it, and put Bella in her place. IF you see Sadie snap/bite back at Bella, I suggest that you don't intervene, other than petting Sadie to support her actions. However... All in all, there's not a lot you can actually do about this. Bella is demonstrating her desire for an Alpha position in the pack, and as I said, it's up to the residents (not you by the way) do defend/or permit this to happen. I will add... Your Breeder should have been able to tell you about Bella's demeanor before you got her. Those aggressive/alpha tendencies show up almost immediately when the Pups start playing with each other, and rarely an issue which is considered, when adding a member to one's Pack. This is a "natural" thing, not a "bad" thing. __________________ Dogs know that you love them, weather you own them or not Mbrs of YT Teapot Club: SNEAKERS since Apr 2011, Ichabod SOON ! RIP my darling Becca.

02-08-2013, 07:07 AM	#5
kjc I♥PeekTinkySaph&Finny Donating Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Baltimore, Maryland Posts: 18,869	Maybe some taming, training and people bonding would help. How long have you had her? __________________ Kat Chloe Lizzy PeekABooTinkerbell SapphireInfinity

02-08-2013, 09:24 AM	#6
Cha Cha Donating YT 500 Club Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where the deer and the antelope play Posts: 7,069	We don't have the alpha problems or problems with other dogs, but my Mylee does have some pretty severe anxiety and behavior issues and is a runner. I have been spending a great deal of time training her to the open door or when I leave not to rush the door and try to bolt. First what I did was throw kibble away from the door and as she went for the kibble, I slipped out the door. After she got used to the kibble, I started working with her on the stay command. I take her to a rug which is away from the door, give her a small treat then ask her to stay while I walk to and out the door. If she comes off her rug, during my walk to the door, I redirect. This gives me plenty of time to get out the door without worry of her being right behind me or under my feet. (I so worry about one of them getting slammed in the door too.) This has been a life saver for us and her wanting to bolt (plus she was aggressive towards us as we tried to leave and this has completely stopped that behavior as well). Now, she has gotten to where she doesn't need the treat I just take her to her rug and ask her to stay and she does really well most times. She is almost to the point that she'll take herself to the rug as I walk out the door. She's trying. It has taken a lot of patience and time to get her to this point but she probably wants to learn more than any other dog I've ever had. She's very smart. If I don't tell her to stay, she'll try to come to the door with me, and even revert back to being aggressive as I leave so she knows the routine, and expects it. Some people have gates up in front of their doors too which is a good idea if you have a runner. Good luck and welcome to YT! __________________ Shelly and the girls Moka Mylee

02-07-2013, 09:19 AM	#2
Marioana Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Naperville Posts: 76	One suggestion I have, for the climbing, is to buy baby gates with vertical bars only...we found on amazon a thing can be converted into a play pan also and has a gate, and Chewie can't climb it (he climbs everything else, like bath tubs, beds, chairs, tries to jump on counters...)

02-08-2013, 10:21 AM	#8
yorkietalkjilly ♥ Love My Tibbe! ♥ Donating Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: D/FW, Texas Posts: 22,140	I apologize - this is very long but is a step-by-step way I train dogs with door darting issues. As far as the door darting, it is possible to get a dog to change that behavior but I'll be honest, it takes work and repetition. It takes you staying in training mode, matter-of-fact and not losing patience as it is hard to train the greeting excitement reaction out of a dog. To train her from the start, use high value treats she will "kill" to get - her very fav's that she sits up and takes notice over - something like turkey hot dog pieces or boiled chicken. Desensitize and redirect her energies to the door by repetition of having a family member knock on the door/ring the bell, take a treat in your closed fist and guide her after your fist carried low beside you near her nose to a spot you want her to go to when someone is at the door. Make it a spot where she can see who is at the door - don't frustrate her by putting her in another room. Let her door spot be within sight of the door and the newcomer. Anyway, guide her with the closed fist full of a treat to the spot you want her to go to, have her lie down and treat her, rub her back in praise and smile. No excitement here. Don't amp her up by wild praise here. Just treat and praise when she lies down. Keep repeating this over and over - at least 4 - 5 minutes at a time a few times a day. At the same time, if she doesn't know the "stay" or "wait" obedience trick, teach her that and keep the training fun and upbeat. You want her coming along happily with the learning process. Smile when she gets it right. Praise with really loving feeling, looking her in the eyes and treating. This will help her start to learn there is such a thing in her life as impulse control and that if she goes to and waits in place when someone comes to the door, she gets that lovely treat. Here's the trick - don't treat every single time after the first few days of training. That expectation of when she might get a treat is wonderful to dogs and they work hard in hopes that this might be the time. It is more effective than treating every time after the first few days of teaching a trick. Once she is able to control herself and has learned the "stay", start to desensitize her to staying in place in her door spot, the place you are teaching her to go for a treat when someone comes to the door. When the doorbell rings and she goes to her door spot of your choice and lies down, treat her and say "Stay" or "Wait", hold her eyes with yours and hold that treat in your fist before her as someone else answers the door and lets the person in. Herd her back into place when she tries to get up and go greet. And she will. Over and over she will try. THIS IS WHERE SHE WILL TRY YOUR PATIENCE TO THE DEATH! And here is where the success comes in - just stay in training mode, say "Uh oh", go retrieve her, herd her back with your arms and hands outstretched to the side, looking into her eyes with intent, and when she is backing off, grab a treat from your waited treatbag and guide her with that fisted treat back to her door spot and treat her instantly when she lies down. Say "Stay" again, holding another treat enclosed in your fist before her, holding her eyes with yours. When she does stay for as long as even 1/2 a minute, treat and praise her with a gentle pat, smile and release her with the word "release". Now she can go greet the newcomer. Gradually increase her "stay" times in her door spot before you release and allow greeting. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Stay upbeat, fun, smiling. Repeating this process over and over with patience, love and gentleness is how you can help your dog achieve impulse control and desensitize to the whole idea of a visitor coming to the door without her going wild. It is EXTREMELY work intensive and requires you to absolutely keep it fun and rewarding for her, staying patient and never losing your cool because I find this is the single hardest thing to teach a dog and keep it reinforced. In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release". In the natural world, the dog's impulse is to greet newcomers to the pack, go and sniff the behind, lick the lips of the other dog and often they will jump up on people trying to get to the lips to greet as in the wild, though in that wild setting with other dogs they don't need to jump up unless they are small puppies. But this process of teaching the long down "stay", the controlling of her impulse to get up and working to stay down to get that reward of the treat and your smile and pleasure - that will go a long way toward helping her concurrently learn to stay down in her "door spot" as a new visitor comes in. EVENTUALLY, she will get that going to her spot, staying down gets her rewards and she will still get to go greet the newcomer, but only after the "release". It is a lot of work and takes about a year if you don't work at it a lot but one day it will all come together and you will have a dog that controls its impulse to dart out the door just like dogs control their impulse to bite, pee where they want, walk beside you on the leash and not pull you down the street - all of those things they learn to do despite their natural inclination. But training them to stay calm and in a safe spot as the door open is entirely possible if you keep patiently at it over and over and over, keep it fun and loving and don't give up. Most people give up and give in to the dog's way and go buy gates. haha. This type of training or some modified form of it is not for the faint of heart and really only for those who love to work with dogs and keep it fun, positive and rewarding and are far more determined than the dog. __________________ Jeanie and Tibbe One must do the best one can. You may get some marks for a very imperfect answer: you will certainly get none for leaving the question alone. C. S. Lewis

02-08-2013, 11:12 AM	#11
Ldyrev1 Princess Sophie's Choice Donating Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Clinton, IL, DeWitt County Posts: 2,758	Jeanie I hope it's ok but I cut and pasted your training directions to my Yorkie file. __________________ Diane owned and loved by Hansel and Princess Sophie

02-08-2013, 11:27 AM	#12
yorkietalkjilly ♥ Love My Tibbe! ♥ Donating Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: D/FW, Texas Posts: 22,140	Goodness, use it how you want! Amend and tweak it and or go completely another way - it's just something that works for me because I want a dog not to dart out and run off when the door is opened. And when one does escape, you call it to you or tell it to "stop", smile a little to the dog can see you are not mad(he could run again if he thinks you are) and go get it, and even if it kills you dead, do not say bad things to the dog or grumble or act mad. Just control that impulse! Just pick him up, patiently bring him back and when he's back inside, treat the little devil and smile that your baby is home and safe and keep training again with a smile, once you've beat your head against the wall a few times and have had a few hours to get the blood pressure back to normal and half a tranquilizer or a glass of wine or chocolate! He's a dog and dogs do doggie things at the worst times and that's why we patiently train and train and train - to stop the unwanted doggie things that can get dogs killed or lost! But all kinds of techniques work for different people with different dogs so whatever works is what to use in training your dog. __________________ Jeanie and Tibbe One must do the best one can. You may get some marks for a very imperfect answer: you will certainly get none for leaving the question alone. C. S. Lewis

02-08-2013, 02:09 PM	#13
ilovejoel Donating YT 1000 Club Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Alaska Posts: 3,299	When joel gets out if I go to him he runs and won't come by me, so I have to say peanut butter for him to come in the house. I hate to reward him for going out but it's the only thing he comes to. __________________ ℜachael JoelRoxy iLoveJoely.com

02-08-2013, 05:18 PM	#14
Zerelda311 Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 122 Blog Entries: 1	Thanks for all the info! I will certainly try anything. She is still a puppy (born 10/11/12) so I do try to take that into consideration lol I bought a harness today and it has seemed to chill her out a bit. She has only wiggled out of it 3 times haha __________________ Sometimes the smallest things take up the most room in your heart.